The cuisine of the island of Elba can be considered spare, even in the most elaborate of of this dished. This means that the culinary notions of the Elbans are fruit of an uninterrupted series of migrations, occupations by various peoples, united by their poverty and their fate to work hard (in the mines, on the sea, in the vineyards).

However, even a history of poverty reflected in the cuisine can produce surprisingly genuine and generous results.
In analyzing the gastronomic developments of the island's towns, we notice taht most original contributions hail form the mining area.

In Rio, one immediately notices a strong esatern influence. From the 14th through the 16th centuries, until the construction of Cosmopoli (Portoferraio), the Saracen invasions occurred frequently and the Barbaresque piarates left behind not only a bitter memoryof sackings and destruction, but also something sweet, Schiaccia briaca ("drunk flat bread" originally without alcohol, in accordance with the Qu'ran) which combines typical middle-eastern ingredientes (pine nuts, smirne grapes, walnuts).

Aleatico wine is an irreplaceable and necessary component of the modern day version and was introduced in the 1800s, as were the walnuts, which are not produced on the island and are, therefore, relatively expensive.
The version from the 1800s used local honey instead of sugar which was rare and costly.
The flat bread used no leavening nor any eggand was therefore easily preserved over long periods of time which made it a perfect part of the nomads' and sailors' provisions.

Later, in the 17th century, other poor dishes, such as sburrita, gurguglione and stoccafisso, were imported from the Spaniards or through the Neapolitan soldiers who guardedthe garrison on the south-east partof the island, under Spanish command.
The preparation of imbollite, a type of flat bread with the figs that are especially abundant in thisarea, isa ancient.

Sportella, is a type of anise bread, which has been refined since the time when it and cerimito, were considered objects of exchange between fiancès, during the Easter celebrations.
The shape is reminiscent of the symbol for the two sexes and it is supposed to be a good omen for a fertile season.
Caccilebbora, is also a bread with anise. It has an egg in he middle, and since ancient times has also augured well for fertility.

The great quantity and good quality of fish, enables the preparation of dishes like polpo lesso (boiled octopus), which is eaten in Elba in great quantity, fried or marinated zerri, zuppa di favolli, tattler and cuttlefish cooked in various ways, le minestrine di pesci di scoglio e bietole (reef fish and chard soup), spaghetti alla margherita (with spider crabs) and many others.
Cacciucco, as the documents of Napleon's time reveal, is prepared in the same way as it was when he was the most illustrious guest on Elba.

Marciana and Poggio are famous for sweets like corollo and schiacciunta.
They are made with pig's lard and are excellent dipped in a wonderful glass of moscato, aleatico or ansonica passita.

In conclusion, it seems clear how the different placements of the inhabitants characterize Elba's cuisine.
The towns in the hills and mountains have a cooking tradition based on sweets and breads of variousshapes and sizes, while the seaside towns mainly offer fish based dishes.
In the past there were differences between the mountain and seaside cuisine maintains its variety. In fact, Elba's culinary traditions also include a variety of dishes of Tuscan, Ligurian, Provençale and even pirate origin.

Testo a cura di Alvaro Claudi (gastronomo) per conto delll'Agenzia Turismo per L'Arcipelago Toscano

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